100 Travel Stories
The Craziest Market in the World: Merkato, Addis Ababa
Merkato: Africa’s Largest Open-Air Market
At first glance, Merkato in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia, is a chaotic place. Widely described as Africa’s largest open-air market, it employs thousands of people and stretches across a maze of narrow streets and alleys.
The market is divided into sections selling spices, coffee, scrap metal, recycled goods, textiles, second-hand clothes, pots, baskets, and much more. Tailors and shoe-shiners work alongside the merchants, adding to the constant activity.
People, cars, trucks, and donkeys carrying merchandise move through the narrow alleys in a seemingly endless flow. The scene can be overwhelming. Merchants balance enormous loads on their heads, sometimes carrying three or four mattresses at once, while skillfully navigating the crowds.
As I had experienced at Serekunda Market in Banjul, the Gambia, photographing people here wasn’t always easy. Some traders were uncomfortable being photographed, even from a distance. When taking close-up portraits, it’s always best to ask permission first. Some people declined, while others expected payment or a purchase in return.
“Keep your camera in your hand at all times”, a policeman at the market entrance advised me.
I usually travel with a backpack, which can attract unwanted attention in crowded places. A few young men seemed to be watching me, perhaps waiting for an opportunity to take advantage of a distracted tourist. When I noticed them, they moved away.
Having a local guide with me made me feel more comfortable exploring the market and taking photographs. My small Ricoh GR II was also less conspicuous than a larger camera.
What impressed me most was the ingenuity of the people and their ability to find value in almost anything. Some workers carefully stripped insulation from copper wires, while others polished old sneakers for resale.
The recycling section was particularly fascinating. Here, discarded materials were given a second life: old tyres became sandals, and used Italian olive-oil tins were transformed into coffee pots. As Lonely Planet once noted, the market offers a remarkable variety of recycled objects and everyday goods.
Merkato was hectic, challenging, and endlessly fascinating—a place where the ordinary business of daily life becomes an extraordinary photographic experience.
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