Holly Cow! The Incredible India

India is not just a destination—it’s a world unto itself. A land of contrasts and colors, ancient traditions and modern marvels, serene landscapes and bustling cities, India offers an experience like no other. From the snow-capped peaks of the Himalayas to the sun-kissed beaches of Goa, the country unfolds in layers of culture, history, and spirituality. Whether you’re wandering through the chaotic charm of Delhi’s bazaars, marveling at the architectural wonder of the Taj Mahal, or savoring the spices of South Indian cuisine, every moment in India tells a story.

Join me on a photographic journey as I explore the sights, sounds, and soul of just a small part of this incredible country: the northeastern region, including Rajasthan and Uttar Pradesh.

The Border Crossing from Nepal

The first impressions can be overwhelming when crossing the border from Nepal into India. I crossed on foot—and what a difference just a few meters can make!

Piles of garbage line the streets, cows roam freely on chaotic roads where it feels like everyone has the right of way. Beggars asking for money and children—often carrying even younger siblings—are common sights.

Nepal – India border crossing

Our G Adventures group took jeeps to reach the railway station for an overnight sleeper train to Varanasi. Traveling at 100 km/h on a narrow two-way road was quite an adventure. The road was shared by people, bicycles, tuk-tuks, motorbikes, and a few unexpected surprises—cows strolling calmly, goats and dogs napping in the middle of the road, and even elephants!

Cow on the road

There seemed to be no rules—except for honking: “I’m coming, get out of my way! My honk is louder, which means I’m bigger.” Meanwhile, monkeys looked on in amazement at the chaos unfolding on both sides of the road.

Varanasi

“I found Varanasi absolutely staggering. I have never seen anything like it before. The city just spills into the river Ganges… It’s really, really extraordinary!” – Brad Pitt

After an overnight train journey, we arrived in Varanasi the next morning.

India sleeper train

Varanasi is a sacred Indian city where millions of Hindus come for pilgrimage—to worship, to mourn, or to embrace the final journey.

Varanasi street

People of Varanasi

The streets are bustling with everything imaginable. Vendors balance their goods on top of their heads. Barber shops consist of just a chair and a mirror set up right on the roadside. A corpse is carried through the streets by chanting men. Policemen, armed with single-shot rifles from the 1950s, look like revolutionaries. Car axles are repaired by heating them with cow dung.

Car axle heated with cow dung

The mechanic

Fireworks explode everywhere in the streets—it’s Diwali time! Even right under my feet. I got a bit burned and was deaf for a while, but it’s all part of the adventure!

“Enlightenment, and the death which comes before it, is the primary business of Varanasi.” – Tahir Shah, Sorcerer’s Apprentice

What makes Varanasi famous is the Ganges River, locally called the Ganga.

Ganga River

We went very early in the morning to witness the bathing and burning rituals. It’s quite a sight—life and death intertwine in the same place. People bathe in the holy waters of the Ganges, drink from it, or wash their clothes.

People bathing in Ganga River

On the riverbank, you can see the fires from the cremations. In the end, the ashes are cast into the river. If any body parts are not fully burnt, the priest will throw them into the water after performing a few bows. I was in a boat when I saw a human foot being gently placed into the river following the priest’s ritual. The cremation sites are quite impressive, and the businessman who owns them is said to be very wealthy. Piles upon piles of wood await their next customers. Cremations happen continuously, with mourners (only men) and tourists moving between the pyres, creating a surreal and haunting atmosphere.

Varanasi cremation place

Night ceremony, Varanasi

Traditions are well preserved in Varanasi—the oldest continuously inhabited city in the world.

Talking to a real sadhu was quite an experience—until another one, perhaps not so genuine, with big green eyes showed up and tried to hypnotize me. “Repeat after me: om-janga-banga-tanka-tuba-ganga… two hundred dollars.” It didn’t work!

Sadhu

Orcha, Agra, Jaipur and Delhi

Welcome to Orcha!

Orchha was supposed to be a quiet place, but I stumbled upon a large Hare Krishna celebration. Hundreds of women arrived in tractor trailers to bathe in the holy river and perform “puja” (offerings to a deity). It was incredibly colorful, and I took many photos. This is also where a calf gave me a little nudge in the bum while I was snapping pictures—much to the locals’ amusement!

Villagers joining the Hare Krishna festival in Orcha

Women performing “puja” – Orcha

Agra is home to the Taj Mahal and the Red Fort. The Taj Mahal was built by 22,000 workers between 1631 and 1654. It is a mausoleum dedicated to the favorite wife of Emperor Shah Jahan.

Taj Mahal

In Jaipur (the Pink City) you’ll find the Amber Fort and the “Palace of Winds“. The observatory, built in 1700, is also fascinating; it features outdoor instruments that measure time using the sun’s shadow with an accuracy of two seconds, as well as track the sun’s various positions.

Amber Fort, Jaipur

Palace of Winds

New Delhi, the capital of India, is quite a contrast: clean and modern in some areas, but dirty and poor in others. Before arriving at New Delhi Railway Station, the train passes for kilometers through stretches of garbage and makeshift homes. The subway is quite modern, with trains built by Bombardier, a Canadian company. Every time you enter a metro station, you must go through security screening, similar to airport procedures.

A walk through Chandni Chowk in Old Delhi is a must. The bazaars sell everything you can imagine! Other sites to visit include India Gate, Humayun’s Tomb, Jama Masjid Mosque, and Lodi Gardens.

Smiley schoolboys, Lodi Gardens

Humayun’s Tomb

Jama Masjid Mosque

Here’s a real story from my hotel room in Delhi: the power went out, so I went to ask about it and found the “hotel accountant” trying to fix the lights. I asked him what kind of nightlife Delhi offers. Without missing a beat, he said, “We can have entertainment right here in your room!” Then he added, “I love foreigners!” Yeah… that’s not exactly the kind of entertainment I was hoping for, so I politely declined and made a speedy exit!

India hits you hard—chaotic, colorful, unforgettable. There is so much to see. A trip of a lifetime.

Things I tried

• Eating goat brains
• Rajasthan food (very good, spicy)
• Trying to sleep on an overnight, 16-hour train ride from Varanasi to Orchha.
• “Driving” my rickshaw to the horror of its owner (“You don’t know the rules! What rules?!”)
• Cocktail at the Rick’s (bar inspired and named after Rick Blaine, the star of the movie ‘Casablanca’  – Taj Mahal Hotel in Delhi)

Map

Related

• Lonely Planet: A first-time guide to India
• People of India: Portraits